Housemate relaxing with a cold beer in hand.Saturday, March 21, 2009
A day out on the harbour
The humidity drops, the air is crisp and fresh after a storm. Its the change in seasons for us. Only 2 to start with, the wet and the dry. You start to notice when you cannot get a table at your favourite restuarant without having to book. The tourist buses seem to be full and there is just generally more people than usual at Woolies. Anyway, it was a good time to get out on the harbour on my ex-bosses catamaran.
Housemate relaxing with a cold beer in hand.
Housemate relaxing with a cold beer in hand.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Eat your fruits
As a dietitian, unfortunately you get top pecking order of being cc-ed into any and every fruit and vegetable joke. Here's one of them.. 
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Cooked Out
Besides my Diabetes cooking class, I also work with young athletes. Part of keeping myself in the loop of Sport Nutrition. Do I make a killing? Not really. My books just about balances. Meaning I have a slight profit hopefully to keep the tax office happy.
The good thing about having your own business and ABN is that I could go buy a cookbook, new frypan and even dinner at a restuarant and call it work related expenses...
But, I'm pretty cooked out these days working the 2 jobs.
The good thing about having your own business and ABN is that I could go buy a cookbook, new frypan and even dinner at a restuarant and call it work related expenses...
But, I'm pretty cooked out these days working the 2 jobs.
Strong Light CT2 and under-torque
Standard gearing 53/39 versus compack 50/34 cranks (which some traditionalist scoff at).
Frankly, I think the comapct ratio are a gem. Being 55kg and not very massive legs, I can hardly hold/pull the 53T for long. The only downside is the 34T combo which I find too low (unless I am cycling up the Pyrennes!). Thus, the 110 BCD makes it easier to change or upsize to a 38T.
Spot anything wrong with the picture. I always thought over torque was bad but under torque can be worse. I didnt even notice anything until last weekends ride when I notice I had lost 3 of the 5 bolts holding the crank together! Here's the last surviving two.
Here's one area which I would not mind using steel bolts. The alloy inner bolts on the crank are already starting to round off.
Frankly, I think the comapct ratio are a gem. Being 55kg and not very massive legs, I can hardly hold/pull the 53T for long. The only downside is the 34T combo which I find too low (unless I am cycling up the Pyrennes!). Thus, the 110 BCD makes it easier to change or upsize to a 38T.
Spot anything wrong with the picture. I always thought over torque was bad but under torque can be worse. I didnt even notice anything until last weekends ride when I notice I had lost 3 of the 5 bolts holding the crank together! Here's the last surviving two.
Here's one area which I would not mind using steel bolts. The alloy inner bolts on the crank are already starting to round off.Gore Ride On and Bontrager
With newer designs and wider and ever engorging bottom brackets, the front derailuer cable now has to thread through part of the frame. One of the criticisms of the design is that a small plastic sleeve is actually placed just when the cable curves up. Maintainance is an issue as dirt and gunk tend to built up much more easily.
Enter the Gore Ride On Sealed system with teflon cables which are said not to need lube during service. You can feel the 'teflon' immediately as you try to pull the cable to tension before screwing in the bolt clamp. Any difference in shifting? Not that I could notice, but I do not shift the front that often and the old cable arent that old to start with.
The cable is pretty easy to install. Time needed: 30min max. The plastic sleeve runs all the way through.
Cable/frame 'donuts' tend to slide up and down and congregate at an area after a while. Not much use. Install some Bontrager rubber sleeves/widgets on the outer cable.
Time needed: 20mins!! The are a pain to get onto the cable but once at the required location; DOES NOT MOVE.
Enter the Gore Ride On Sealed system with teflon cables which are said not to need lube during service. You can feel the 'teflon' immediately as you try to pull the cable to tension before screwing in the bolt clamp. Any difference in shifting? Not that I could notice, but I do not shift the front that often and the old cable arent that old to start with.
The cable is pretty easy to install. Time needed: 30min max. The plastic sleeve runs all the way through.Cable/frame 'donuts' tend to slide up and down and congregate at an area after a while. Not much use. Install some Bontrager rubber sleeves/widgets on the outer cable.Time needed: 20mins!! The are a pain to get onto the cable but once at the required location; DOES NOT MOVE.
Lightweight Clinchers
Courtesy of weight weenie website
1. 1095g, 2008 Carbonsports Lightweight Standard C, 110kg
2. 1099g, 2008 Lew Racing PRO VC-1, 16/20, 90kg
3. 1120g(A), 2008 American Classic Magnesium Clincher - Sapim Spokes
8. 1250g, 2008 DT Swiss RRC1250, 18/24, C, 90kg
9. 1255g, 2008 American Classic Magnesium Clincher - 28/32
10. 1300g, 2008 American Classic Sprint 350 28/32, 24/24mm
13. 1315g, 2008 FRM FL-R21 Aerolite SL HCB , 24/28,
17. 1350g, 2008 Rolf Prima Elan, 20/24, 23/23mm, A,
19. 1355g, 2008 Mavic R-SYS Clincher, 16/20, 22/26mm, A,
20. 1348g, 2008 HED Ardennes, 18/24
23. 1365g 2008 Bontrager XXX Lite, 20/24, 24/24mm,
24. 1370g, 2008 Fulcrum Racing Light Clincher, 22/24
25. 1386g, 2008 Shimano WH-7850-C24-CL , 16/20, 24/24mm
For the average cyclist, even a change to a lighter set of wheels can be felt almost immediately. It feels 'lighter', your ability to generate speed is quicker. And in a race/criterium situation, this becomes even more important with constant changes in speed.
There however comes a point when the cost benefit ratio of a set of wheels become ridiculous. Here's a list from weight weenie with the highlighted bits of what I deem the most cost effective set of clinchers.
Yours dun fair too badly down the list Mike but with a set of 202/303 tubs weighing less than 1100g, its something to consider.
1. 1095g, 2008 Carbonsports Lightweight Standard C, 110kg
2. 1099g, 2008 Lew Racing PRO VC-1, 16/20, 90kg
3. 1120g(A), 2008 American Classic Magnesium Clincher - Sapim Spokes
8. 1250g, 2008 DT Swiss RRC1250, 18/24, C, 90kg
9. 1255g, 2008 American Classic Magnesium Clincher - 28/32
10. 1300g, 2008 American Classic Sprint 350 28/32, 24/24mm
13. 1315g, 2008 FRM FL-R21 Aerolite SL HCB , 24/28,
17. 1350g, 2008 Rolf Prima Elan, 20/24, 23/23mm, A,
19. 1355g, 2008 Mavic R-SYS Clincher, 16/20, 22/26mm, A,
20. 1348g, 2008 HED Ardennes, 18/24
23. 1365g 2008 Bontrager XXX Lite, 20/24, 24/24mm,
24. 1370g, 2008 Fulcrum Racing Light Clincher, 22/24
25. 1386g, 2008 Shimano WH-7850-C24-CL , 16/20, 24/24mm
For the average cyclist, even a change to a lighter set of wheels can be felt almost immediately. It feels 'lighter', your ability to generate speed is quicker. And in a race/criterium situation, this becomes even more important with constant changes in speed.
There however comes a point when the cost benefit ratio of a set of wheels become ridiculous. Here's a list from weight weenie with the highlighted bits of what I deem the most cost effective set of clinchers.
Yours dun fair too badly down the list Mike but with a set of 202/303 tubs weighing less than 1100g, its something to consider.
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